Thursday to Sunday
July 25 to 28, 2024

It’s always a blessing to travel overseas, even more so if it’s a trip to Japan, my favorite place in the world. This is my travel recap and thoughts as we experienced Osaka, Japan’s kitchen. Ikuzo!

Pre-Japan

This is my third time to Japan, having visited Tokyo in 2019 and Fukuoka in 2023. This trip was sponsored by my beloved mama and I will be traveling with her and my brother. Having acquired a multiple-entry visa previously, there weren’t any problems on my side when preparing for the trip.

Our original flight was supposed to be at 1PM of Wednesday, but due to terrible weather, the flight was delayed until 10:30PM! At that point, we were just thankful it was not cancelled, but the ~9 hour wait at the airport was mentally exhausting.

Waiting for announcements, but hey, the airline gave us a free meal! lol

At around midnight, we were able to fly out of the Philippines. I spent the entire time playing with my Steam Deck and trying to get some sleep.

Day 1

We arrived at Kansai International Airport (KIX) at around 5AM, Japan time. After the very smooth immigration procedures, we waited at the arrival area for the Ninja WiFi booth to open up.

Arriving, getting some coffee, and immersing in Anime

In the meantime, I grabbed a cold can of coffee from a vending machine. I missed these things! Pushing a button and hearing the drink plop down is so satisfying to me. After picking up our WiFi device, we boarded the train bound to our hotel’s station.

Once again, I was in awe of the train system in Japan. The experience is a far cry from the ones in Manila. These are the moments I’ve been saving up for. One highlight of the trip was finally purchasing an IC Card! Finally, no more manually buying tickets with each trip.

Marveling at the train system and my own Icoca card (valid for 10 years)

We checked into our hotel which was completely unmanned. It’s pretty how advanced Japan is with security. It feels so safe to be there given that you don’t do stupid things. Our entire stay here was pleasant and secure.

Our hotel was nicely located near Shinsekai, so we started exploring there. It was still early in the day so most stalls were still closed, but there were many tourists already. We followed the crowd, took lots of pictures, and soaked in the atmosphere.

A really cool building and Tsutentaku tower from the streets of Shinsekai

I must say, I did not expect the summers in Japan to be as hot as the ones in Manila. I might argue that it was just a little bit hotter in Osaka. It didn’t bother me yet, but my brother and mama already had their umbrellas up.

Our first activity of the day was going to Tsutenkaku Tower for the Tower Slider. This was a spiral slide you see in playgrounds but around 3-storeys tall. We arrived just as the line started so we were able to get in quickly.

The slide itself was very quick. If not for the Osaka Amazing Pass, I would not say its worth it. But it’s one of those touristy things that you just have to do when you’re in Japan. As usual, the staff were very accommodating and enthusiastic.

The spiral slide wrapped around the building || Before and after the slide

We bought the aforementioned Osaka Amazing Pass, which gave us free entry to multiple landmarks (including this one) PLUS free train rides in the subway. This is a must-have for an entire day of travelling and seeing the sights around Osaka.

After the slide, we didn’t want to line up again for the observation deck, so we walked our way to Shitennoji Temple. This temple is one of the oldest in Japan and boasts a remarkable pagoda. There was an entrance fee to the central square but the Osaka Amazing Pass took care of that. After some moments of admiration and walking around the place, we moved on.

Shitennoji temple is very quiet in the morning

We took a train to the Tempozan Harbor Village. Here, our first destination was the Tempozan Ferris Wheel. Thankfully, there were only a few people around and we were able to board immediately.

Seeing the view from atop a giant ferris wheel was intense. I marveled at the entire structure and how it was bigger in diameter than most of the nearby buildings.

The ferris wheel from below, inside, and a shot of a classic-style ship used for tours

After that, we headed to the Tempozan Marketplace to do some shopping. Some souvenirs were bought and we started to look for a place to eat as we haven’t had breakfast yet.

We found the food court and ordered at Jinbei Roast Beef Bowl. I ordered beef ramen and it was one of the best bowls I’ve had. Imagine if Tonkotsu had more of a beef flavor than pork. Even plain, regular wagyu is infinitely more tender and delicious than the beef back home. My first meal in Osaka was very satisfying.

Beef ramen, beef rice bowl, beef sushi

Bellies full, we marched into the Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan. This was on the top of my list of places to visit. I love Aquariums and I’m glad my family shares the same interest. Whenever we go overseas, we always find the time to visit one if there is a chance.

There, we marveled at the multiple, massive tanks and all the creatures living inside. Mama was very happy to see that all the animals are quite active. In other aquariums, they usually just stay still and are boring to look at. Here, they are very lively and I could honestly watch some of these displays all day.

The highlight was the giant tank in the middle with two whale sharks and other giant fishes. There were also penguins and dolphins who seemed to enjoy the attention as they kept swimming back and forth their tanks.

Some penguins and a starfish with the cutest butt I’ve ever seen

Another memorable experience was the feeding time for the seals. The trainers made them do tricks in exchange for chopped fish. It was too cute and made me dream of an alternate life as a seal whisperer.

Seal feeding || My favorite animal was a bit shy || A long hotdog at the Cafe Ring Of Fire

After the aquarium, we headed to Umeda Sky Building, which boasts an aerial view of the city. However, we were not able to make it in time for the Osaka Amazing Pass Free ticket. So we opted out of going to the view deck and just roamed around the floor below it. In addition to the view, there were more souvenir shops that took our Yen away.

The very distinct shape of the building and the impressive midair escalator

After a long day of traveling and tens of thousands of steps walking, we headed back to our hotel. We found a nice yakiniku spot near our accommodation. We had more strips of wagyu that we cooked on the grill ourselves.

I was finally able to taste some horumon (offal) once again. I missed this from Fukuoka and having it ooze juices in my mouth made me so happy.

Can’t explain how good this meal was

We bought some rice balls at a nearby Family Mart and retired in our room. We were still lacking sleep so it was still early into the night when I closed my eyes and entered dreamland.

Day 2

The next day found us waking up early to take the Shinkansen (Bullet Train) to Kyoto! We purchased our tickets at Shin-Osaka Station and boarded the technological marvel. It was really cool to see the landscape whizz by as we were transported to Kyoto in just 15 minutes.

We took the local train to one of the most famous landmarks in the area, Fushimi Inari Shrine. Here, we braved the heat and found the famous area with a thousand-plus Torii gates. There were already a lot of visitors in the area so we patiently waited to get a good picture. We explored the shrine a bit more before walking back to the train station. By this time, the sun was high and the heat was a bit uncomfortable.

Our next destination was Kiyomizu-dera Temple. This was up a long road filled with many restaurants and shops for tourists. There were a lot of places offering kimono rentals and we saw some tourists already wearing some.

We stopped by one of the few open places to get some refreshments. I ordered a pickled cucumber on a stick which was very interesting and something I didn’t know I’d like.

My neighbor || Grabbed some shaved ice here || The pickle on a stick

We eventually reached the temple and found some shade. After recovering, we walked around and explored the area. The bright paint of the buildings really made them stand out and I overheard a tour guide say that red is a lucky color.

Kiyomizu-dera and its eyecatching pagoda

Finally, we descended via the Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka paths which are known for their ancient-style buildings. Since we arrived early, most of the shops were still in the process of opening. I could see a lot of tea houses and souvenir shops. It was visually appealing to me how all the buildings had the same look. It reminded me of the old streets in Taiwan, but much more open.

We eventually reached Maruyama Park where we rested a bit under the shade of an old tree by the pond. I took some time to observe the huge Koi fish and even saw a cute, long-necked turtle.

We passed by Yasaka Shrine and finally reached the modern highway of Kyoto. It was almost noon so we were ready to have some lunch.

It was a tiny opening into Pontocho-dori Street where we decided to look for a place to eat. We were on google maps for a bit, looking for a good restaurant when I read a sign that says this street was one of the old Geisha districts. That meant places to partake in dining and revelry.

Entering Pontocho-dori

Halfway into the street was a shaded playground and we caught a breather here. I took the chance to take some pictures of the Kamo river. The area reminded me of the Marikina river back home. One massive difference is that the Kamo was so clear that one could see the river floor. Aside from that, there were people biking and strolling the river bank which was quite reminiscent of the ones in Marikina.

The serene Kamo river and the nearby playground

Finally, we decided to eat at En En. They served delicious beef sukiyaki for lunch. I also ordered beef rice bowls which were very succulent and delicious. Sukiyaki is my favorite soup because of its sweetness and this particular one was light and refreshing. Props to the cute server for teaching us how to cook the beef well.

It was also one of the first restaurants to open for the lunch rush

Sukiyaki pot and beef bowls

With our bellies full and our legs tired, we took the regular train back to Osaka. In contrast to the 15-minute Shinkansen ride earlier, this trip took us two hours. We were all able to get a nap in the process.

We returned back to our hotel for a quick rest, but not before buying some food from the Original Kitchen next door. This store specialized in ready-to-eat homemade cooking. There were many choices but I decided on Omu-rice and some chicken yakitori sticks. I brought them to the room and ate them while my brother and mama got some sleep.

Feeling restless, I decided to head to Abeno Q’s Mall by myself to search for the Mugiwara Store. Along the way, I found a covered shopping street and went in for a bit. Thankfully, I had google maps so I could afford walking into strange streets without getting lost.

Some alleys and stairs, plus Abeno Harukas looming above the neighborhood

Wandering alone with no definite itinerary is my favorite thing to do in Japan. Just exploring and seeing the activities of the locals is very relaxing. I found some interesting sights as well, like a set of stairs that looked a bit like those in Your Name.

It was a bit hard to find the store based on google’s location but it’s in 3F of the mall. I looked around but refused to buy anything that wasn’t particularly practical. Afterwards, I went around the mall for a bit and looked at the offerings in the gacha machines.

This store was harder to find than Laughtale

I walked back to the hotel but not before discovering another path full of activity. This actually looked like a shortcut from the highway and straight into Shinsekai. There were karaoke bars, archery ranges, and restaurants. It was all very nice to observe.

Hidden alleys, mushroom claw machines, and Kushikatsu Daruma

Back at the hotel, I fixed up as we prepared to go to Dotonbori. I was quite excited for this as I am an avid fan of the Ryu Ga Gotoku (Yakuza) series. Sotenbori is based on this exact district and I was ready to see it all with my own eyes.

We took the subway once again and upon reaching street level, we were swarmed by so many people. There were tons of tourists around! It reminded me of the night markets of Taiwan. We weaved around the crowd and took some pictures of the Glico man and the river.

It was exactly as I expected! I could see some familiar places and everything was trying to grab my attention. So many lights and colors.

Some familiar places because of the Yakuza series

After a bit of walking, we got hungry and looked for a place to eat. We eventually settled on Mitsuru. We were seated promptly and it seems like we avoided the dinner rush by just a few minutes because as soon as we were seated, lots of people came lining up.

Here, I was able to get my first taste of the famed Kobe beef.

That marbling is something I’ve only seen online

Let me tell you that it was absolutely worth the price. This experience is something I want to share with others. It’s a must-try even for just once in your life. “Melt-in-your-mouth” is a cliché, but it is the only phrase to describe the experience.

We ordered some pork to balance the beef as well as some beef udon that made me crave for Marugame back home. The food here was great but the time for the food to be served was quite long for my standards. The meat was served immediately, but the other dishes really took too long.

More snaps of Dotonbori || Ichiran (No Pork) was right there teasing us

After dinner, we strolled the various streets of Dotonbori some more. I was able to purchase a travel backpack from one of the stores there. With more tourists arriving as the night went on, we decided to go back to our hotel area and buy stuff from the MEGA Don Quijote right in front of us.

With our wallets drained and tax-free bags full, we walked to our accommodation and called it a day.

Day 3

The third day was a chill day for us. We didn’t wake up early as our first destination, the Osaka Museum of Natural History, was going to open at 9:30 in the morning.

The way to the museum was through Nagai park. There we observed some runners training under the heat. We also passed by the teamLab Botanical Garden which is only open during evenings. We were one of the first customers at the Museum.

We looked through all the displays but my favorite was the dinosaur bones display in the first floor. I was also coming down with a sore throat and cold for some reason so I admit that I wasn’t having an excellent time.

After the museum, we headed to Abeno Harukas. This was the tallest building in Osaka with a great view at the top. However, entry was not free so we settled with the rooftop plaza on the 16th floor. But before heading there, we decided to get some lunch at Sushi Kokei.

After 2 days of eating beef, I was happy to get some sushi in my belly. It was a very traditional restaurant but the waiter was able to communicate in English. We ordered a couple of seasonal sets and they were served promptly.

Everything was absolutely delicious and I was quite full by the end. Authentic Japanese rice is a joy to eat and I would give up Filipino rice in exchange for this. I have never tried high-end sushi in the Philippines so I can’t really compare, but the fish was really fresh. The scrambled egg roll was my favorite. I don’t know how they cook it, but it’s so juicy and addictive.

Heavenly sushi and sides

We also ordered mixed tempura on the side and this was a treat. The tempura coating was light and crisp and the vegetables weren’t oily. I wish we ordered more of this.

After lunch, we headed up to the rooftop plaza to admire the views of the city. When it got too hot, we went inside and perused the souvenir shops.

Afterwards, we returned to the train station to go to Osaka Castle. This was a very punishing ordeal as the sun was high and the Osaka Castle Park grounds had very little shade. There was a lot of walking to get to the castle itself. The grounds were massive!

It was interesting to see how the giant rocks fit each other perfectly to create the foundations and fortifications. It boggles my mind how they were able to make it without modern machinery. Even the huge moat was a marvel to behold.

We didn’t spend too much time outside. After taking pictures and reading all the supplementary signs, we went into the Miraiza Osaka-Jo building to shop for souvenirs and grab a bowl of shaved ice.

No longer having the will to walk all the way back down, we waited for an electric shuttle to take us back to the drop-off point near the station.

We headed to Namba City which was in a station on the way back to the hotel. Here, my brother and mama shopped at Muji while I decided to chow down on some rice and meat stew in a quaint café right beside it.

We returned back to our hotel as all three of us were already starting to feel under the weather. However, I stayed until Tennoji Station to visit the Don Quijote store there. I did some more last minute shopping and walked the rest of the way home.

I enjoyed walking so much that I took the long way back to the hotel and visited Shinsekai once more. In the evening, the place is even more lively. I observed the people and the shops for a bit and then returned to the hotel for some rest.

Some more shots of Shinsekai at night

Day 4

This was the last day of our trip so we spent it shopping. We checked out of our hotel and left our heavy bags at Daikoku Locker and boarded the train to Umeda.

We roamed around the Lucua mall and marveled at their store displays. There were so many delicious food at the bottom floors but most of it was for take out. It’s interesting how most of the layouts in Japanese malls are similar to each other. They are very open and easy to navigate with all the visible signages.

We crossed to the Hanshin Umeda Department Store and had lunch at their food court. Lots of people were happily eating so we sat down at the first place that had available seats. This happened to be Kuu Shin which served Chinese cuisine.

I had their appetizer sampler which included jellyfish strips. It’s my first time eating them and they’re actually pretty good. I liked their texture which felt like extra-tough jelly with a bite. I think we should eat more jellyfish in general, especially those invasive species.

They also had delicious pork buns or siopao as called in the Philippines. The bread itself was soft and fluffy while the meat inside was savory and juicy.

Our next destination was Links Umeda. Here, we looked at the gadgets from Yodobashi Camera and compared prices to those sold at home. Tech in Japan is somehow more expensive than in Manila. We took note of the models of Powerbanks we wanted and decided to purchase them when we came home.

The bridge to Umeda Links and the massive Osaka station

Finally, we purchased some last-minute snacks and returned to grab our bags and head to the airport. The check-in process at Kansai Airport was quick and convenient and after dropping off our Wi-fi device at the booth, we were already in the pre-departure area. Here we waited for our flight and I spent the time playing with my Steam Deck.

I wanted this powerbank || A nice banana shake to cool me down

Everything was on schedule and at around 8PM, we were boarding the plane back to the Philippines. It’s always a bittersweet moment returning home, but it’s back to reality for us. Arigatou, Osaka!

Miscellaneous Thoughts

• Osaka’s summer heat is about the same level as in Manila. It’s very very hot and I’m glad my daily life has prepared me for these temperatures. Umbrellas and bottles of water are very much recommended.
• There aren’t as many chain restaurants in Osaka as compared to Fukuoka or Tokyo. I didn’t see a single MOS Burger in our entire visit! But there are still many good places to eat. Osaka reminds me of my hometown of Bacolod where the main thing to do is to chow down on all the local offerings.
• TRAINS ARE FUCKING AWESOME. Most of our destinations are easy to access because of the train stations. And finally getting an IC card is a life-saver! We desperately need these Public Transportation systems back home. Everything is so convenient.
• 5 vending machines on a single building block??? Don’t mind if I do! I have so many coins jingling around in my pocket anyway. Nothing beats a cold can of Boss Coffee or a bottle of Hojicha.
• This is my only Japan visit that I didn’t get to eat at Ichiran :( There were just too many tourists in all the branches we passed by. Maybe next time.
• There are many things I wish I could copy-paste from Japan into Manila. Even just the attitudes of the people are a step up. People are so hospitable and kind.
• I expect the vibes to be different when it’s not summer time, so I will definitely do my best to return during a cooler season. There are still so many places I want to go to.

Some random and quirky earrings I wanted to get lol

More of the delicious stuff I consumed during my stay

It’s been a few days since this trip and I’m already scanning the airline websites for a cheap ticket back. I’m targeting Nagoya this time, as it’s the port I haven’t been to yet. I’m gonna use the shit out of my multiple-entry visa for sure!

A big thank you to mama for shouldering most of the costs for this trip. And to my brother for refining and taking care of the itinerary. Some of the photos used here were also taken by them.

This was our family’s yearly overseas vacation and I’m happy that we were all able to enjoy and appreciate the sights that Osaka had to offer. Looking forward to the next travel destination.

Ohana at Osaka

Thanks for reading if you made it up to here. Feel free to comment down below and let’s exchange information if you’re interested in anything related to Japan. :)

Toire wa doko desu ka?

-jgzn